The travel all with an interactive map.
Preamble
With the Covid-19 pandemic, 2020 was a black year for traveling and I had to cancel a stay in Scotland. 2021 spring was not better and for the second time in 22 years I could not go to visit irish mountains... But late in July, my cousin called me to know if I would like to visit Madeira next September. 48 hours later, we booked our flight to the "petite Réunion" and few days later we ordered a travel company to organize our tour.
Logistic
As we wanted mostly to do day hikes without heavy backpack and because some routes were not looping, we chose a travel company which uses to organize the transfer of our luggages between the places we would stay. The price of such a solution depends of the category of hotels and guesthouses you select and it can be less expensive than hiring a vehicle.
30/08 - France to Madeira
Direction to the airport for a flight of 6 hours to Funchal, the main town of the flower island. A wall covered with traditional azulejos confirms that we are in portuguese lands. The runway is special : in 2000, it has been extended partly above the sea on 180 columns for a total length of 2781 m. Since 2016, the airport is named Cristiano-Ronaldo to thank the athlete. We will stay two nights in a little hotel located in Machico, next to Funchal.
31/08 - Into the baking sun
Ponta Sao Lourenço
The number of buses near the starting point promises crowded trails. Despite the only 27°C, we feel like vampires at midday under a blazing sun with no shadow around us. Ponta Sao Lourenço is dried like a desert. In the middle of nowhere, the old house of the park rangers is like an oasis with its terraces full of lyophilised tourists under the shadow of palms. We notice a lot of not very shy lizards along the path : they climb on your feet and visit your bag if you don't pay attention ! In the palms, few atlantic canaries (Serinus canaria) watch for the reliefs of the meal left by tourists.
01/09 - On the ledge
Levada do Caniçal - Porto da Cruz
We start our day walk from our hotel in Machico to Pico do Facho. The summit gives us a nice view. Then we continue to Boca do Risco, following our first levada. After the so hot sun of yesterday, we are pleased to follow a suspended path in the cliff of the north shore. We are 300 m above the sea surrounded by various species of plants that grow on the rock faces. After this easy walk, we make a stop on a rocky beach where we can see a school of surfers. The not so fresh water is good for our feet !
02/09 - Like in a film
Pico das Pedras - Queimadas Park - Caldeirões Verde et do Inferno
After the first two hikes, this forest outing along irrigation channels is exceptional. In the the Queimada Forest Park with nearly 100 % humidity, we are soaked in sweat. Following the levadas, our feet are in some places a few centimeters from precipices of almost 500 m ! We go through bridges, paths and tunnels digged in the cliffs by slaves. A tunnel is so well named "Quebra-cabeças" (head breaker) that a front light is a good idea to avoid wet and rocky traps...
Caldeirão Verde is more impressive than Caldeirão Inferno and balcony views are worthy of Skull Island...
03/09 - A little coastal walk
From Ponta São Jorge to Santana
After the two first hikes, a pause is welcome. After missing the only bus of the morning, we find a old and happy taxi driver to bring us from Santana to Ponta São Jorge. We start our walk from a little lighthouse and we go down to the ocean. Then the path follows the cliffs to go back to Santana. The arrival in the village is made through a green public park to the central place where stands a traditional madeiran house.
04/09 - Level 3
Chão da Ribeira - Fanal - Curral Falso
After a farniente, let's go for a level 3 hike. It starts directly with a 800 m ascension, a sweating session as you can imagine even in the shade of a forest.
Once we reach the summit, we discover a large plate. We are surrouding by giant heather, making us feeling like a pair of rabbits. This is the only area in Madeira where we see small herds of cows. The site seems to be famous for the inhabitants as we find some crowded barbecue places.
As the levada dos cedros is closed, we have to take a diverting way crossed by mountain bikes descent trails (not very safe for hikers). We end our hike with one hour less than expected.
05/09 - The 25 Springs
Rabaçal, the site of a laurissilva, UNESCO World Heritage accompanied network of levadas and 25 springs
2021 is a dry year with no flooding but also with less water for the springs. The ballet of waterfalls is compromised for this easy walk. The tour concludes with a dark 1km length tunnel at less than 16°C.
We end our day at Porto Moniz, a seaside town with a big sea pool.
06/09 - In the morning mist
Levada Nova : from Ponta do Pargo to Paul do Mar
Today the clouds are low and the atmosphere is wet with the past night rain. After a short shower, the sky is gradually cleairing. The route is pleasant. As we cross forest of eucalyptus, the smells of undergrowth fill us. The hike ends on an old paved road to Camara de Lobos under a brutal sun and among prickly pear. Lizards are every where on warm rocks.
Buying some food can be tricky at Paul do Mar, particularly with no car.
07/09 - Azure sky, watch out for sunburn
Boa Morte - Camara de Lobos
This walk should be a rest before our last hike. The route is almost easy until the final descent. We walk across some traditional gardens under a blue sky without any shade. We are happy to arrive in Camara do Lobos. This harbour is the origin of a cocktail called "poncha" : more or less a punch or, if you replace orange juice by hot water, a grog ! The town center is decorated with a graphic art made from recycled waste.
On the way back to Funchal by bus, I see the famous CR7. Once at the hotel, I decide to visit the coastal part of town and to search a good restaurant for our dinner : Akua created by the chief Jose Pereira. The food is a mix of traditional ingredients prepared in a revisited way, a very good choice !
08/09 - The ultimate test
Pico Vereda do Areeiro - Pico Ruivo - Miradouro da Encumeada
As for our first hike at Ponta Sao Lourenço, the trail is crowded. The 6.5km from Pico Vereda do Areiro to Pico Ruivo take us more than 3 hours ! Panoramic views are wonderful as expected. As we walk along ridges, lower our head in few tunnels and up and down stairs, a sea of clouds is rising. As Pico Ruivo is the highest summit (1862 m) of Madeira and it is easy to be reach, there is lots of people. After ou lunch, we continue our way to Miradouro da Encumeada with less descent (but more ascent) instead of going down to Curral das Freiras.
A taxi will pick us at 17:00. The trail is a bit strenuous if you are not in a good day but it is really nice if you like them few traveled or a little rough. Our total ascent seems to be more than 2000 m and our descent even more. That is why we arrive just 5 minutes before our taxi to Funchal.
For a dinner, beer and pizza for the cheap heroes of the day...
09/09 - The end
After this unique fat morning (wake up at 08:25), lets go for aday of air travel and above all of waiting with 6 hours at Lisboa airport.
Madeira won its surname "la petite Réunion" : volcanic rocks, steep grounds, trails with many stairs, a lush vegetation. Our journey was a nice discovery as we met nice people and we walked with a dry weather and in some places very warm. The Island has offered wonderful landscapes and it was a pleasure to follow trails in forests smelling eucalyptus. As for the other nickname "the flower island", it is just as deserved.